Vermont banned smoking in restaurants and bars 12 years ago, but the area’s best new restaurant has allowed it — nay, insisted on it — since it opened last fall.

Black Diamond BBQ is a bit off the beaten path, situated at the crossroads of Morristown Corners in the little burg’s historic general store. But if you follow your nose, the aroma will lead the way.

For a place that uses as much local product as possible, it only makes sense that the tinder be local, too. Black Diamond eschews mesquite, with its bigger-in-Texas assertiveness, for a sweeter, gentler blend of maple, apple and cherry wood.

Fire plus wood equals smoke, which, when introduced to portions of pig, cow and fowl, equals a whole lot of 4393 Awards for the place.

For instance, while pork and beef bolster the meaty middle of the menu, readers say Black Diamond serves up the best chicken wings in Lamoille County — smoke, fry, douse, wipe your hands on your jeans.

The people who run the place, including Jason Pacioni (bronze-medal chef in this year’s awards), also take their sow on the road. Black Diamond has side gigs at area farmers markets (second-best market vendor), and will bring the smoke to your home or wherever you set up your party (No. 1 caterer).

Indeed, mobile meat is Black Diamond’s origin story. Its roots began as an Elmore-based caterer unafraid to cook up anything to match the whims of wedding planners and event organizers.

Seconds, please.

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